37 Commentaires

  1. For popping seeds, I soak each seed in a shot glass for at least three days….some will get taproots, others, not so much. Check on them after 8 hours or so, and see if they have sunk to the bottom of the glass. If not, give them a little tap to make them sink.

    Then after three days, I plant ALL of the seeds, even the ones with no tap root, about 1/2 inch deep (seriously no more than 1/2 knuckle joint for sure) usually in the pot the plant will live and finish out in. Then delicately cover the seeds with medium and poor the water from the shot glass in and around the seed. Sometimes I transplant, but have found that transplanting will put those plants at least a week behind the others planted in their permanent pots. Once the seedlings pop up, I water them with a spray bottle twice a day, just enough to moisten the soil around the plant, until they are ready for the tent or the outside. I am at almost a 100% success rate of germination.

  2. I stick my finger deep into the prepared pot. Fill the hole with worm casings. Set the popped seed on the worm dirt and cover with the regular soil. The tap root will decide which path it likes the best. This is my current experiment. It's going great so far.

  3. When germinating I soak the seed until it sinks, in a glass of water. Then I sterilise a cloth (not paper towel, its to easy to over water or underwater a paper towel). Put the soaked seed in the cloth, the cloth in a zippy. Zippy, cloth and seed on a heatmat set at 20°C. I fully saturate the medium before putting the germmed seed in. This means I don't worry about dry pockets, air pockets. It also means I don't need to water for the first 10days. Placing it on a heatmat, under light until transplanting.

    When the produce seed they dry them. This puts the seed into a dormancy, soaking the seed before germination allows for even germination. Sometime, especially with auto (due to the ruderalis) the seeds can go into deep dormancy and will need 4-5weeks in the fridge to break the dormancy (stratifaction).

    I transplant autos, any plant will get transplant shock if you do it badly. To avoid shock, try transplanting in the evening/ start of dark period…this means the plant can adjust without the sun/electric sun frying them. Add microbes and mycelium to the roots when transplanting, this reduces transplant shock. The last thing I would do is spray with seaweed solution, the hormone boost will help.

  4. 🌲CONGRATS ON 10 K GUYS 🌲
    Soaking seeds in water until they sink is always a good start.
    I love your cat. Same model as mine 😂 Little Blacky is a cat that I rescued. Anyway …….
    I just harvested Cafe Racer ✌️and an old skool skunk… The Church. Very happy with both strains ✌️
    I just germinated the potent strain Blueberry 🌙 Moonrock. Soaked the seed until the tap root showed then I placed in a grow wool cube that's been soaked in 6.0 pH water for 24 hours then I place this on a heat mat in a porcelain bowl if room temp is below about 18 degrees Celsius.
    I only grow photos and transplant at 2 weeks…..then at 1 month and flip straight into flower and BOOM ! READY TO TRY AUTOS 🙂
    So that's how I do it 💪✌️🙏

  5. I just toss the seeds in room temp tap water in a cup and put them in a warm dark place. The cup of water never drys out and I've always had 100% success rate with germination unless it was a bad bean. Then once I have decent size tap roots I plant into a small jiffy square pot with mokoko coco amended with Gia green 4-4-4 4 tbsp per gallon, and about a cup of worm castings. Toss a little mycorrhizae in before you plant if you wanna help give it a jump start. Then I toss them after planted in a little propagation dome for cuttings and most and keep humidity high till they pop. I'm confident with this method you will be able to germinate in any medium including rockwool and peat pucks. Keep up the videos guys

  6. Photos: Let them swim for 24 hrs in warmish water. Plant into Pro Mix organic starter medium in 3 inch square pots under a Sunblaster Nano Dome with an 18 W LED with a warming matt under the tray. I use the Govee hygrometer inside the dome to monitor temp and RH. Give them just enough water to wet the area where the seed is located. Take the lid off once the first true leaves are fully formed. Transplant into 1 gallon pot when I have 3 nodes

  7. The best results I get is when I drop the seed in a glass with a inch or 2 of bottle water then place in the dark till the tap root come out or it at least crack open then put in a thick paper towel and damp it then put it in a zip-lock bag blow in the bag and seal it place in the dark and magic happens if u already have a tap root this will only make it bigger/longer .

  8. Straight in water method actually works. No longer than 18 hours tho. Or they drowned. And if they sink they might be a dud. Tried and true method. Followed by paper towel to further growth. Thanks guys I learned alot.

  9. New to indoor growing and autoflowers but have a few seasons outdoor under the belt here in MA(photo periods). You guys have helped me figure a few things out. Did the shot glass to paper towel method then straight to a 3 gal pot. 4 days in soil so far and things are looking good, temps range from 70-80 and same with the humidity (75ish-80%). Will be decreasing the humidity as they age. As for watering I just give them a little spray each day/as needed just to keep some of the soil moist. Just wanted to say thanks again for all the helpful tips 🙌

  10. Cut a one inch square of two ply paper towel, peel towel apart, place seed, moisten with water & a touch of hydrogen peroxide(for more oxygen) place in one or two inch zip bag & set in a warm spot. Doesn't need watering, ziploc retains moisture. Set it & forget it method.

  11. Keep it Simple: Shot glass for 24 hrs. or until 1/4" + of tap root. Plant in pre-moistened final pot using humidity dome until 2" tall. (Autoflowers in soil with slow release dry nutes).

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